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2.04.2009

2/4/09 Full Circle

Regular readers have heard me talk about H**, my language tutor and friend. She was my Language and Culture Facilitator during stage, and since she lives in SouqTown, she has continued to help me in countless ways since swearing-in.

On Monday morning, I told her about an email I'd gotten from our Country Director. He was passing along praise for PCVs teaching English classes, from an Embassy staffer. Here's an excerpt:

We had to choose 25 students to participate in the YES program (a 1 year student exchange program at the high school level) . My colleagues and I on the panel were very impressed with the English language skills of the students who had interacted with Peace Corps volunteers. In fact, their English was by far the best and they did a wonderful job expressing themselves. I also just went through a similar selection process for one of our university programs and one of the students whose English was truly superior was one who once again was taught by Peace Corps volunteers . The Peace Corps volunteers are clearly doing a wonderful job and should be commended.

In response, she said that she wished they'd put an English class at the Youth Center in SouqTown. I explained why there isn't one - politics, mostly - and she said that back when there was a Volunteer, she did a fantastic job.

H** never volunteers information about herself, but on a hunch, I asked if she'd worked with this long-ago PCV. She nodded.

A decade or so ago, a Volunteer taught H** English. This enabled her to study English language and linguistics in college, which made her eligible for employment with the Peace Corps, where she uses her flawless English to teach new PCVs the languages and culture of Morocco, which they use to teach young Moroccans English.

The circle has been completed. :)

This loop, anyway. But as the embassy officer's email indicates, our work continues to bear fruit. In fact, H**'s slightly ulterior motive is that her little sister is now at an age to start visiting the Youth Center...

And the circle keeps turning.

2.03.2009

2/3/09 Joining Peace Corps - The Timeline and Application Process

Disclaimer: This post ended up a LOT longer than I'd anticipated. The application process is multi-tiered and complex, as well as terribly opaque, and I wanted to give a thorough explanation...which means that this is long. Hopefully very useful, but long. Also, I detailed my own experiences with the application process as I went through it, as you can read here and here. You can also find everything I've written about the Peace Corps Timeline here.

So, you've decided to join Peace Corps.

What happens next?

Application Part 1: Who Are You, and Why Do You Belong in Peace Corps?

Step one is filling out the application on the Peace Corps website. This took me a little over 3 months, partially because of my procrastination and partly because the application is so long, and requires minute details of your past. Here's the list of pages you'll fill out:
Personal Information
Application Information
Legal Information
Financial Obligations
Intelligence Activities and Organizations
Military Status
Family Information
Dependents
Job Preferences
Post-Secondary Education
Language Skills
Licenses and Certificates
Employment History
Community and Volunteer Activities
Geographic Preference
Practical Experience
Essays
Application, Part 2: Medical Information
Once your application is submitted, you're allowed to access your medical questionnaire. They'll ask you about you and your family's experience with nearly every disease or condition imaginable. Whether you've ever sought counseling. Whether you wear glasses. Whether you've ever been diagnosed with ... anything. Etc, etc, etc. They're hoping to send you to a country where you'll go months or years without access to Western medicine, so they need to know that you'll survive.

One other note: I'd never advise anyone to be less than forthright, but in the interests of full disclosure: The medical questionnaire can create problems. If you've seen a therapist at any point in the past 10 years, you'll need to get that therapist to complete a 6-page analysis of your mental health. A friend who saw a counselor for a few months after her parents' divorce, and another who got a handful of sessions of therapy after a sexual assault - in both cases, years before they applied to Peace Corps - have both told me that they wished they'd said No to that question, and saved themselves (and their long-lost therapists) a lot of hassle. But they did both end up in Peace Corps, so maybe honesty was the best policy, in the long run.
Application, Part 3: Recommendations
It's not enough for you to explain why you're wonderful; your friends and colleagues need to agree with you. Peace Corps requests three recommendations, one from an employment supervisor, one from a volunteer work supervisor, and one from a close friend who has known you for at least two years. If you have no work or volunteer experience, you can substitute a professor. Your application won't be reviewed until your recommendations are in, so this is the time to nag your friends and recommenders. Kindly and gently, of course, because they're doing you a big favor.
Application + 2-4 weeks: Interview
Assuming you've correctly filled out the application and are at least slightly qualified, you'll probably be granted an interview fairly quickly. (Yes, there are a lot of qualifiers in that sentence. There are no absolutes in this process.) Peace Corps likes to brag about how selective the process is, based on the ratio of applicants to Volunteers, but the truth is that most people who start the application never finish it, so the number of "applicants" is artificially inflated. That's actually one reason the application is so horrifically long - if you don't have the patience and dedication to type stuff into your computer, you probably don't have what it takes to serve for 27 months in an underdeveloped country.

So now you're at the interview with your recruiter. Expect to discuss the information on your application, as well as your chosen region. Why did you choose it? How flexible are you? (And remember, flexibility is key.) I reeeeally didn't want to go to a blistering hot country, so I made a note on my application and during my interview that my ridiculously fair skin sunburns in minutes (lame but true), and so I'd really like not to be anywhere near the equator. Result: I'm in Morocco, north of the Tropics, technically, but within hours of the Sahara.

...just as an object lesson in how much your preference is considered. :)

Also at the interview, they'll probably fingerprint you, for the FBI background check. Oh, the background check - one of many reasons you shouldn't lie on your application. There are Volunteers who have been convicted of minor crimes before, including drug abuse and civil disobedience, but they were all up-front about it. There are no Volunteers who tried to hide their past indiscretions. And don't think that "expunged" means the FBI can't find it. They can and they will.

Note to vegetarians: While serving as a Volunteer, you must be willing to eat what your host family eats. While they may accept your not eating the meat itself - mine did, after a while - the fact remains that everything they serve will have been cooked with meat. If you've been veggie for a long time, you may want to start reintroducing meat into your diet, a little at a time. You have enough to deal with upon the start of your service - you don't need your gut to start rejecting all meat-infused food. Lots of vegetarians have joined Peace Corps, so don't think it's a deal-breaker, but you and your recruiter *will* have this conversation.

Depending how well your interview goes, your recruiter may tell you which region he or she is planning to invite you to. Or he/she may not. Don't read too much into it.
Application + 4 weeks: The Waiting
You've been interviewed. If the interview went well, you're probably going to be Nominated. Eventually. Here's a good time to practice the Peace Corps skills of patience and persistence. Don't harass your recruiter, but it's OK to check up on them every week or two. They may need another one or two pieces of information from you that are stalling your application. I'm sure they'd get around to calling you for it eventually, but PC staff are human too, and therefore distract-able. It's up to you to make sure your paperwork is flowing through the proper channels.
Application + 1-3 months: Nomination
Congratulations! Your recruiter thinks you'll be a great Peace Corps Volunteer. Along with your nomination letter, you'll receive a package containing some paperwork about the region (but not the country) to which you've been nominated...and medical paperwork. Lots of medical paperwork.

Note: They won't tell you this, but you'll now be handed over from your recruiter to your "placement officer". So any questions you have will be routed to someone new.
Nomination + 1-12 months: Medical Testing
Remember that detailed medical questionnaire you submitted? Part 2 of the application? It went to the Office of Medical Services (OMS), who have now sent you a four-page checklist that you and your primary care physician will fill out, plus a page for your dentist. (Peace Corps needs X-rays, as well. And since they won't send you to a dentist until your Mid-Service Medicals, 15 months after you leave the US, go ahead and get a cleaning now, too. And consider scheduling one for just before you leave.) Don't skip anything or leave any blanks, or they'll send it back to you. You'll need a TB test and bloodwork, so plan for at LEAST three visits to your doctor. And yes, ladies, you will need a pelvic exam.

In addition, any question in the online questionnaire that you answered Yes to will result in extra pages for you and your doctor(s). What's the current status of your condition? Can you back that up with renewed medical testing? What's your glasses prescription?

All these doctor visits can get pricey. Peace Corps will reimburse you for some of the costs, but not much. A better route is to find the local VA Hospital - there is one in nearly every American city - and they'll give you the full physical for free. Uncle Sam scratches his own back. :) Also, they claim that several fairly expensive vaccinations are required before you go...but some of my friends later got these vaccinations for free during Pre-Service Training. I have no idea why, but if your budget is tight, you should talk to OMS about it.
Application + 3-12 months: Legal Clearance
The FBI checks you out. If you aren't guilty of anything you haven't already explained away to your recruiter, and if there aren't any outstanding warrants for your arrest, this should be quick and easy. Should be, not is. The FBI is busy, so this may take a while. I thought that this was a bit of a joke, since I've lived a (generally) virtuous life...but it's still a hurdle, and you still have to jump it successfully. Also, if you ever blew off a parking ticket or moving violation, the traffic court judge probably issued a bench warrant for you, so you'll need to clear that up before your application can proceed.
Medical paperwork submission + several months: Dental and Medical Clearance
OMS has reviewed your medical records and test results. If they have any questions, they'll ask you to redo some portion of the exam and/or bloodwork. OMS is chronically understaffed - there are a lot of much better-paying gigs for doctors - so this process can take longer than a healthy person might expect. But once OMS is satisfied that you'll survive 27 months without regular access to western medicine, they'll clear you, and send you a note letting you know that you've been cleared. Once this final hurdle is crossed, you're invite-able.
Final Clearances + 1-2 weeks: Invitation, aka We Want You in the Peace Corps!
They'll email you to let you know that your packet is in the mail, but the packet has been overnighted, so at you won't have to wait long (for once!). If your invitation is on the early side, you might get some nifty Peace Corps freebies, like a patch to sew onto your backpack, a keychain, a luggage tag, a bumper sticker, etc. I was nominated only a few days before the window closed, so didn't get any of that stuff. :(

"Window closed"? Turns out that Peace Corps promises not to invite you less than six weeks before the beginning of training, so as to allow you enough time to shed the trappings of your old life and prepare for the new one. My training began March 1, so my placement officer *couldn't* invite me (or anyone) after January 21st.

That's the official line, anyway. I do have a few PCV friends who got their invitation with only two or three weeks to go, so apparently exceptions are made from time to time, but you shouldn't expect one.
Invitation + However Long You Want: Making The Decision
You've been invited. Peace Corps is asking you to serve in X country, doing Y work, leaving on Z date. This may be a surprise, or may be exactly what you expected. If it's a shock, give yourself some time to make a good decision. The most common "If I knew then what I know now..." that I've heard from PCVs is that they had no idea they could turn down an invitation, and still serve eventually.

Of course, Peace Corps doesn't want you to be a dilettante about this. If you turn down several viable invitations, they may decide that you're not serious about serving, and stop inviting you. But the little-known truth is that YOU DON'T HAVE TO ACCEPT YOUR INVITATION. You really don't. If your sister is getting married in a few months, or if your dad just had a stroke, or even if you're just mortally terrified of the country they're assigning you to...you can pass. You'd better have a good reason for passing, and defend it to your placement officer, who will do his/her best to convince you accept this invitation. But the truth is, you can refuse an invitation once, maybe even twice, and still serve in the Peace Corps. What you can't do is travel for any reason during the first six months you're in country, so if your sister's wedding or your best friend's baby-due-date or your mom's surgery are taking place in the six months after your scheduled departure, you have some serious thinking to do right now.

On the other hand, a lot of Volunteers - like me - did not go where they planned to, but still ended up in a fantastic place, living a wonderful life. Don't be afraid of the unexpected.
Pre-Service Training - 3 weeks: Staging Packet
Once you've accepted an invitation from Peace Corps, they'll start sending you information about your training (also known as "staging" or "stage"). Three weeks before departure, you get a packet with some useful logistical information like your flight numbers and travel times, plus some paperwork on cultural expectations and tips on adjusting to your new life

So there you have it. It's a long process full of bureaucracy...but then, your service will have its share of paperwork and bureaucratic roadblocks as well, so you might as well begin practicing your patience, persistence, and flexibility. If you have any follow-up questions, please put them in the comments below or email me. And thank you for considering Peace Corps!

The Wide-Eyed Innocent's Guide to the Peace Corps Application Process

My Pre-Peace Corps Timeline
My Pre-Peace Corps Timeline, cont.

Other Peace Corps Blogs
So You're Thinking About Joining the Peace Corps?
Joining Peace Corps: Timeline and Application Process
What Comes Next: Your First Nine Months In-Country
The Three Goals of Peace Corps
Leaving Peace Corps Service
The Sectors: Youth Development
The Sectors: Small Business Development
The Sectors: Health
The Sectors: Environment
Top 10 Reasons to Join Peace Corps
Top 5 Reasons to Reconsider Joining Peace Corps
Peace Corps Applicant FAQs
Your Peace Corps Toolkit
Final Thoughts for Applicants
Gender and Development: Int'l Women's Day
Peace Corps Applicant FAQs II

2.02.2009

2/2/09 "It's not a chicken!"

In Tamazight, the word for baby is "mumu", pronounced exactly like it looks - moo-moo. Because of the heavy French influence in Morocco, from colonization and then from the ongoing French tourism, nearly everyone recognizes the French word "bebe". *Nearly* everyone. Uneducated women, which includes most of the women in my village, know only Tamazight, not any Darija (Arabic) or French.

The other key word you need to know for this story is "bibi", which means "turkey" in Tamazight.

Recently, some French tourists stayed with my host family, while my Xalti and her new baby were visiting. They clucked over the "bebe", murmuring various French endearments. Some of Ama's friends dropped by for tea, like they do most days. They heard the tourists, and turned to them with consternation. "Iga mumu, mashi afulus!" they cried with alarm.

"It's a baby, not a chicken!"

I wasn't there at the time, but Ama delighted in recounting the story to me. And to everyone who stopped by for the next week or two. This story is going to be around for a while...

The next time Ama asked me to keep an eye on the bebe while she and Xalti were in the kitchen, I turned to her, with wide eyes and alarm in my voice, and said, "Iga mumu, mashi afulus!"

She laughed all the way across the house.

2.01.2009

2/1/09 So You're Thinking About Joining the Peace Corps?

I've been inspired by The Hegemonist to devote some time explicitly to people interested in joining the Peace Corps. I've had these potential PCVs in mind throughout my bloggery, but I want to take some time to address them directly. For the month of February, I'll alternate these posts with more typical ones (for my loyal readers).

So you're thinking about joining the Peace Corps?

Congratulations! That's awesome. :D It deserves your best thinking.

One fun way to learn about the Peace Corps life is to read blogs by Volunteers, like this one. :) You can find them all - or nearly all, anyway - at www.peacecorpsjournals.com. Just pick which region you're interested in, and then which country. Not all blogs are created equal, of course, and while PC does a great job at finding our blogs and posting them there, they're not as diligent about removing them. Under Morocco, for example, there are 131 blogs listed...but many of those Volunteers are already back in the States. So feel free to click around, and don't be discouraged if your first attempts aren't successful. As they say throughout training, our bywords are patience and flexibility.

Or maybe you want some quick facts? There are a bunch available online - like here and here. The numbers constantly change, because new Trainees ship out and Volunteers return (voluntarily or otherwise). As of 9/30/08 - just four months ago - 7,876 Peace Corps Volunteers and Trainees, aka PCVs and PCTs - and get used to the acronyms - were serving in 139 countries. President Obama has spoken warmly of Peace Corps on many occasions, and it seems likely that he will double our size to about 15,000 active volunteers by our 50th anniversary in 2011. Another key fact - we're in our "Host Country" for 27 months altogether: 3 months of training, often referred to as stage, followed by 24 months of service. So if you're looking for something short-term, keep looking. There is some great discussion of this and other issues at So You Wanna Join the Peace Corps?.

Official Peace Corps information sessions are another great resource. They take place all the time, usually on college and university campuses. When I was contemplating this life, I went to a couple of them. They got repetitive in a hurry, so I don't recommend going to several, but going to one is invaluable. You can find one near you here.

One question that came up each time, because it isn't clearly addressed in the official site, was "How much say do I get in where I'm placed?" There's no straightforward answer because the process is individualized. I'll go into more detail on this in the future, but the short answer is that you can - and should - express your preference, but there's no guarantee you'll get it. Peace Corps recruiters do their best to match your skill set with a need for that skill set...and if they need someone who can do what you do in Jamaica, then that's where they'll try to get you to go. Also, you only get to choose a region, not a country. I'd been hoping to go to Jordan, so I requested Middle East/North Africa. I ended up in MENA, all right - but in Morocco. (A blessing in disguise, as it turned out!)

The information sessions and blogs are most useful for clarifying your expectations. "Peace Corps" often conjures up visions of living in a thatched-roof mud house in sub-Saharan Africa, digging wells in dusty villages. Some PCVs still do that, but the focus has shifted to capacity building. When I first heard that, I took a mental step back; it sounds so jargony and ... vague. It turns out that it means helping people learn to help themselves. The "Give a man a fish..." idea. If we want our work to be sustainable - another piece of jargon that means it'll outlast our presence in-country - then the people we're working with need to be able to carry on in our absence. A Volunteer digging a well has made a tangible contribution to her village, but the Volunteer who teaches a local group how to dig wells, and how to write grant requests to buy the materials for wells, will leave behind a village empowered to meet their own needs for water. And that's just one example.

There are various "sectors", or categories of work you could do. The most common sector worldwide, encompassing 35% of active PCVs, is Education, which usually means teaching English classes, but can also mean teacher training or other things. There are no "Education" Volunteers in Morocco, per se, but most of us educate in one way or another. The next four most common sectors are all present here: Health & HIV/AIDS: (21% of PCVs worldwide), Small Business Development (15% worldwide), Environment (15%), and Youth Development (5%). I'll devote a day's blog to each of these.

But while you're thinking, go ahead and take a look at the application. It's incredibly long - 15 or 20 screens, as I recall - so better to start earlier than later. It will take time to compile everything you need, from contact info on all past jobs, to everyplace you've lived in the past ten years, to a comprehensive medical history...it's good to get a jump on it.

The Peace Corps slogan has changed recently, from "The toughest job you'll ever love" to "How far will you go?" They're both valid. In Peace Corps service, you'll be challenged daily, thrilled regularly, and will travel - both in miles and inwardly - farther than you can imagine. So keep thinking about it. Whatever you decide, you'll be glad you considered it.

The Wide-Eyed Innocent's Guide to the Peace Corps Application Process

My Pre-Peace Corps Timeline
My Pre-Peace Corps Timeline, cont.

Other Peace Corps Blogs
So You're Thinking About Joining the Peace Corps?
Joining Peace Corps: Timeline and Application Process
What Comes Next: Your First Nine Months In-Country
The Three Goals of Peace Corps
Leaving Peace Corps Service
The Sectors: Youth Development
The Sectors: Small Business Development
The Sectors: Health
The Sectors: Environment
Top 10 Reasons to Join Peace Corps
Top 5 Reasons to Reconsider Joining Peace Corps
Peace Corps Applicant FAQs
Your Peace Corps Toolkit
Final Thoughts for Applicants
Gender and Development: Int'l Women's Day
Peace Corps Applicant FAQs II

1.31.2009

1/31/09 Blackout

We lose power relatively frequently here in the bled. And when power goes down, we lose the cell tower, too. It has a generator, but it only holds out for an hour or two. Around here, folks use the word rizo - from the French reseau, network - to refer to the existence of cell phone coverage. Where an American would say, "I don't have a signal," a Moroccan - or an American in Morocco! - would say "I don't have rizo."

Today, power and rizo went out around 9am. Often, these blackouts last only a few minutes, so I kept the faith...for a while. By 10, I was resigned. By 11, I was worried.

I spent the day studying Arabic. I've started learning Modern Standard Arabic, known around here as foos-hah for reasons I don't understand. I thought it might be an acronym for Formal Standard Arabic - FSA - but no. It's its own word. I'd hoped to do my studying on the roof. My warm, sunny roof is an ideal place to do any work that doesn't require a plug (ie, stuff on the laptop) or butagas (ie, cooking)...but not today. There was an icy wind that overmatched the high-altitude sun I've come to love. So I was inside, next to my heater, sitting under my window. The panes are frosted, which blocks about half the light. I alternated between opening the window to enjoy the sunshine and closing the window to enjoy the warmth.

I took a few hours out in the middle of the day to finish up a book a friend had sent from America. I do love to read... And it's a great way to pass a chilly Saturday afternoon. :) I also made a batch of pancakes, and indulged in real American maple syrup. Mmmm.

Then I got back to studying. I've made flashcards (reusing waste cardstock from the mail - ecofriendly and handy!) and posted lists of words by category (adjectives, prepositions, pronouns, etc) on the walls. I'm having more fun than I'd anticipated; I keep forgetting how much I like learning. I'm that kid who went to school for the classes, not the classmates. Getting back into a formal language-study routing - as I haven't done with Tamazight in too long - feels good. :)

As the daylight dwindled, I began to wonder if I'd be going to bed with the sun. Candlelight is pretty, but not too useful... Lhumdullah, the power came on just before twilight. I turned my phone back on, and discovered that rizo was back, too. :D As much as I enjoy alone-time, I'm grateful to be reconnected to the world beyond Berberville.

1.30.2009

1/30 25 Random Things About Berberville, Part II

25 Things, cont...

16. Schools. Berberville has a mdrasa, which contrary to popular belief does NOT mean a fundamentalist training camp, but simply means school. Primary school, more specifically, including grades 1-5. Middle school covers grades 6-9, and is known by the french name college. (An accent grave belongs over the middle e, but I can't get blogspot to put it there, sorry.) High school also goes by the French name, lycee (again, please forgive the missing accent), and covers grades 10-12. At the completion of lycee, students sit for their bac, or baccalaureate exam. Very few rural students ever go to university, so "getting your bac", as they say, brings high accolades and great respect.

17. Pre-school. This exists in Berberville, but has for only a few years now. Folks call it a neddi, rhymes with )heady, which word also describes a women's center. Berberville does not yet have one of those, but if we get one, this might get confusing.

18. We do have a women's co-op; they weave rugs, handbags, breadcovers, pillowcases, and nearly anything else you can make on a loom, then sell them at festivals and fairs across Morocco. It used to have almost 50 members, but due to recent drama, its numbers have plummeted to about 5. My sitemate "Fatima" works with this co-op.

19. The moussem, our summer festival, includes a gigantic souq. At this market, you can buy everything from silver jewelry to horses and camels to artisanal crafts (like those produced by the women's co-op) to organically farmed honey to...pretty much anything under the sun. There are also informational booths, distributing information about SIDA, the environment, handwashing, anti-smoking, women's rights... Any official jam3a, or NGO, can get a booth (tent space, actually) from which to hawk their message.

20. Berber culture. I dubbed my mountain village "Berberville" both to protect its anonymity and because the name fits: we're the center of Amazigh culture. (There are three groups of Berbers in Morocco, distinguished by their dialects: Tarifit, in the Rif region of the north; Tamazight, the language of the Amazigh - my people; and Tasuseit, spoken in the Suss region down south. All the dialects are collectively referred to as Tashelheit, from the Arabic word Shilha.) Our Amazigh heritage is why we host the moussem. Our deep isolation - even with the recently paved roads, we're hours from the nearest big town or major road, and before that, it was at least a full day's travel to get to any other town - has protected this culture for millenia. You see it especially in the women, who still tattoo their chins with the designating marks for their tribes, and who wear the ahandir capes that they've woven for countless generations.

21. Berber's rapid development creates odd juxtapositions: tattooed women in ahandirs cross paths with men in leather jackets; shepherds lead flocks to pasture while texting on their cell phones; souq sells teapots made in China next to herbs grown 100 meters away. The government paved the road out to SouqTown only 10 years ago; they paved the road to the nearest town North about two years ago; the road to the nearest city South remains a dirt pist, impassable for much of the year thanks spring and autumn flooding and winter snows.

22. We have one of the best legends in Morocco - a real Romeo and Juliet tale - but I'll save that for a future post.

23. Berberville got phones eight or nine years ago, once the Maroc Telecom trucks could make it out on the freshly paved roads. Cell phones trickled in about the same time as they did in the US, leapfrogging over the more-expensive landlines. Interesting note - cell phone contracts are rare here. Everyone buys cards - what we'd call "prepaid calling cards" in the US - to "recharge" their cell phones, then uses the phone until they "run out of minutes". Cell phones can accept calls for up to six months after they've been "recharged", whether or not they have money left, so it's not uncommon for people to use their phones only for incoming calls.

24. As all regular readers of my blog know, Berberville has a post office, known as the bosta. Home delivery of mail doesn't exist in the bled (rural areas). If you want your mail, go to your PO Box and pick it up. Everyone pays for their PO Boxes (boites postales or BP, again from the French) on a calendar-year schedule. Since Health and Environment sector PCVs are on a May - May calendar, not January - December, we traditionally hand boxes down from one PCV to the next. I got mine from "Zahra", the previous Environment volunteer, and didn't pay a dime until a few weeks ago. When I leave, the new Volunteer will get seven free months in her turn.

25. I can't possibly list 25 things about Berberville without talking about the Berberville citizens, my friends and neighbors, some of the most generous people I've ever met. Moroccans are renowned for their friendliness and openness. I've learned a slightly more nuanced reality - invites for tea come readily, but work collaboration requires deeper trust - but the fundamental truth remains the same. I'm honored and grateful to work and live with these wonderful people. :)

Thanks for reading about my fabulous village!

1.29.2009

1/29 25 Random Things About Berberville, Part I

There's a meme going around, where people post 25 factoids/hobbies/whatever about themselves. I thought I'd post one for my village. :) Also, since I haven't had access to blogspot in over a week - the posts have been emailed to a friend, who's been putting them up for me - I wanted to get back into the swing with a nice, newsy, informative post. :) I'll try to mix the formal factoids with more flavorful stuff.

1. We have a sbitar, a hospital/clinic. It provides a safe and clean place to take care of birthing mothers, minor injuries, and run-of-the-mill illnesses. The staff includes a doctor and several nurses, who rotate in and out over time.

2. We're famous for our lakes. So much so that to elaborate would be to erase the anonymity with which I've shielded Berberville thus far. But trust me, they're awesome.

3. Berberville is quite possibly the coldest site that Peace Corps uses. I'm not positive this is true, but I haven't found anyone else who's had ice indoors, let alone repeatedly. Of course, that's also because most people in cold sites live in mud houses, which don't get as cold as cement houses do. I'm thinking of upgrading my thermometer to one that can track temperature over time, so as to create a climatological record for Berberville. "Bloody cold" isn't very precise, after all. :)

4. The Caid for the region lives here. A caid is an executive-branch official, outranking the moqaddim, which every village (or three) has, but reporting the the governor, who's responsible for the whole province. Our caidat, the fancy building where he works, perches on top of the hill south of downtown.

5. Most Berbervill-ians live in the valley or on the mountain north of downtown. My host family is in the latter group, in a house as remote from downtown as they could arrange. Ama and Baba had been living right on the main street, and Ama worried about having young children in such a high-traffic area. Now, they're in a house perched halfway up the mountain, at almost exactly the same elevation as the caidat. If Batman shot one of his grappling hooks from the window in my old bedroom to the Caid's office, he could sail across the entire village. :)

6. Berberville has several outlying douars, or suburbs (more or less). These tiny villages - is there a word for something smaller than a village? Maybe "hamlet"? - OK, these hamlets contain only houses, so their residents come to Berberville for all their needs.

7. We have a courthouse, complete with a judge, to attend to the legal needs of the region. I don't know what sorts of cases usually come before the court, but I do know that my Xalti got a ruling forcing her ex-husband to pay her alimony and child support, under the mudawana, the family law code, also known as the new protections for women's rights.

8. We have many cafes, restaurants, hotels, and shops, because of the tourist trade. I only patronize them when other Volunteers are with me. It's Hshuma - shameful, inappropriate - for a woman to go to a cafe or a restaurant in general. People mostly exempt me from that, because of my tarumit - foreign girl - status. But since I live and work here, I try never to play the tarumit card.

9. Why do we get so many tourists? Because of our lakes, a major ecotourist destination, and our festival. We hold a major festival every summer, like many of the larger Moroccan cities do. I don't know if any other villages our size hold a festival, but they might.

10. Berberville hosts the gendararie for the region. This houses the gendarmes, the rural police. (Urban police are called bolis.) Both words come from the French. They colonized Morocco briefly, and held a heavy presence for a much longer span, before being thrown out about half a century ago.

11. You can see the French influence everywhere, in the school calendar, the structures of the ministries, and most obviously in language: it is taught in school from 3rd grade onwards. Throughout primary school and up until the end of secondary school, half the classes are conducted in French, half in Arabic. When you hit the tertiary level, at one of the universities, all of the courses are in French, and French expatriates fill the faculties.

12. Berberville has a large and lovely mosque, located right next to the souq. The call to prayer rings out from its minaret five times a day.

13. Souq? Yes, I said souq. Though I take the trip to "SouqTown" every week or so to pick up supplies, Berberville does, in fact, host its own souq. This is a cross between a farmer's market, a flea market, and a mall. Souq happens every Friday and Saturday in the center of town, and in fact probably defines downtown. The word souq means both the markets themselves and the place where the markets take place - I'll try not to be confusing, but that's what happens with versatile languages like Berber and Arabic. For that matter, souq also means "I bought", but I promise not to use it with that definition!

14. Because Berberville nestles into a valley, surrounded by mountains on all sides, flat land commands a premium. Farmers cultivate all of the flat land along the rivers (we have two), and the buildings take the steeper areas.

15. In order to create a "market square", as Americans or Brits might call it, they terraced the lower, shallower slopes of the mountain. Souq has three tiers (terraces). At the bottom, closest to downtown, you find the dry goods, spices, and kitchenwares. On the middle level, clothing vendors set up shop, selling imports, second hand clothes, and anything else conceivable. Leather jackets? North Face parkas? Bathrobes designed to be worn as outerwear? I've seen them all. Selection changes week to week, though, so stay alert. The top level holds the food. It remains half-full all week long, lhumdullah, so I always have a selection of produce available to me. But on souq day, it fills to overflowing with grains, more produce, chickens, etc. There's an additional level, yet higher up the mountain, behind the courthouse (which overlooks the food court, you might say). It holds Live Animal Souq. If you want to buy a sheep, goat, or (rarely) a mule, this is where you come.

More to follow...

1.28.2009

1/25/09 Husband-ly Generosity

Just about the same time the king's foundation came through, distributing largesse (see previous post), Baba (my host dad) bought Ama a washing machine.

He'd told her he would a month or two ago, and she's been pestering him for it, and now the time has come.

When I was at their house yesterday, I was shown The Machine, in all of its pristine glory.

I was a little surprised it had never been used, but it turns out they'd been waiting for me to make it back from my work/Inauguration/blizzard travels...because the instruction manual is in English.

Baba speaks some English, and can read Latin letters easily enough - he's fully literate in French and Dutch, and probably others - but he hadn't gotten far with this document. I soon saw why: it was written in the miserable, pigeon-English that I've found so often on products sold in America but manufactured...somewhere else.

I read through the manual a couple times, then stared at the machine, then read the manual some more...it took me the better part of an hour to figure out how to hook up and use it. It didn't help that it has a separate "spin" basin, which they recommend you use to "save water and engry". By the time I'd worked it all out, the sun was low in the sky, so Ama asked me to come back in the morning for the trial run. (Baba hadn't bought a dryer, and clothes need a full day of sunlight to dry in this cold weather.)

So this morning, I climbed up to their house, perched halfway up the valley wall, to inaugurate Ama's new toy.

I started by hooking up the water hose, only to be told that their pipes are frozen and have no water. I explained that that was a problem, but Ama assured me it wasn't. Baba had checked with the salesman: it works fine if you pour water in, manually.

So our first task was lugging water from the external spigot closest to the house. Then I got to teach Ama and Xalti how to use it, which was quite a language test for me. I think my explanation sounded something like this: "First, put some water in here. Then some soap-for-machines." Apparently, the ubiquitous Tide is designed for handwashing, not machine washing, so Baba had bought special detergent for the makina win sabbon (machine of laundry). Unfortunately, all the instructions on the detergent were in Arabic. The only part I could interpret was the image of one-and-a-half scoops of soap next to a lightly soiled shirt, and two scoops next to a heavily soiled shirt. But how much is a scoop? There wasn't one provided in the package. A teacup? A measuring cup? A handful? I gave it my best guess with a shrug.

"Then put the clothes," I continued. I was demonstrating as I went, both because it's a useful teaching tool (that sidesteps language challenges) and because Ama and Xalti were wary of breaking their shiny new toy. Though I'd never seen a washing machine as lightweight (only 10.6 kg) or one with attachable/removable filling and drainage hoses, I was still the acknowledged expert on washing machines. I felt the pressure, but soldiered on. "Don't fill the clothes all the way to the top. Just to here," I added, indicating with my hand. "Then pour in more water," I said, dumping a few more gallons in. Ama and Xalti murmured to each other about how much water the machine used. They had a lifetime of experience handwashing, which requires a fair amount of water, but only in small doses. The sight of me pouring in gallon after gallon of water seemed to disturb them. I assured them that once the pipes thawed, this whole thing would get a lot easier.

It just occurred to me that the external taps have only been in Berberville for two or three years. Prior to that, every ounce of water had to be carried up from the river (about a kilometer away, and muddy) or the spring (about 3 kilometers away, but clear). No wonder my cavalier attitude towards the thirsty machine upset them.

Once the water, soap, and clothes were good to go, I closed it up and pointed to the knob. It was a straightforward egg-timer style countdown, that reached up to 15 minutes. The manual had indicated that 7-8 minutes were generally enough, so I turned it to there. "No, no, no," Baba corrected me, "Turn it all the way." I figured that his guess was at least as valid as the crazy folks who had mislabled half the diagrams, so we went for the full 15 minutes.

"Now take out the water," I said to Ama and Xalti. This was the best I'd been able to come up with for "drain it out". There was a separate knob to open the drain hose, so we twisted that, and watched the water pour out towards the drain in the floor. "Now we have to take out the soap," I said, having given up on trying to guess the word for "rinse". They'd done laundry a thousand times, they'd know what I meant. "You can do it here," I said, indicating the wash basin, "Or here," indicating the spin basin. I've never had a separate spin cycle option, but the book recommended it, and I like following instructions. But earlier, I'd told Ama that the spin basin would dry out the clothes - which it is also good for - so she insisted on using the main wash basin again, pouring in clean water and running it for a few more minutes. I hoped a few minutes was enough.

When we opened it up, Ama frowned. "This didn't get clean," she said, indicating the cuffs of her daughter's sweatshirt. I felt like defending the machine - my little sis, like everyone (including me), rewears clothes for days at a time. Those cuffs had been filthy. But she was right, it wasn't clean, so I held my tongue. "And this smells like soap," she announced. Again, she was right. I wondered if the spin basin would have done a more thorough job of "taking out the soap", as I'd put it.

We put a few garments into the spinner, including the soap-scented one, and let it rip.

The second load went more smoothly. The little pink sweatshirt went back in, along with a pile of other clothes. Xalti put in about half the water I had, over my protests. When I looked inside, the water was about two inches below the level of the clothes. Xalti had stepped back outside, so I went ahead and poured in more water. Her daughter started shouting. (All four kids, ranging from 6 to 11 in age, had watched this whole process with unending fascination.) I was irritated that my little cousin had ratted me out - what happened to generational loyalty?? - but when Xalti came back, I explained how important it is to have more water than clothes.

That time, the water that poured out was a greyish brown. We all kind of stared at it. Then Ama told Xalti, "Well, it's the same when you do it by hand." She turned to me and explained, "These are the kids' clothes. They're outside constantly, so their clothes are ----." I couldn't recognized the word she'd used, so made a stab at an echoing statement.

"Yes, they're just full of mud...?"

Ama nodded. "You have to wash them twice," she continued. "Always."

So we threw the second load in for a second wash, with about twice as much soap, and they came out clean. Lhumdullah!

Somewhere in here, I explained to everyone - Baba, the women, the kids - the importance of experimentation with a new appliance. Of course, I don't know the word for experimentation, so what I said was, "Maybe it won't be good the first time. Try something different. Try more water, or less water. Try more soap, or less soap. Try a different brand of soap. Just try. Then, inshallah, you'll learn the best way to wash."

I was afraid that Ama would tell Baba to take it back. Why I sided so emphatically with the machine, I'm not sure. Maybe because I know how much Ama's hands and back hurt after she does all the laundry by hand. Maybe because the washing machine represented Western culture, and I wanted to defend my peeps. Maybe because I saw how proud it had made Baba to be able to give it to her.

By the fourth or fifth load, Ama had found a compromise with The Machine that made her happy. She no longer used the spin cycle or the rinse cycle, but rinsed the clothes by hand. "Just rinsing them, that's not so bad," she explained, as she squeezed and wrung the garments. "It's the scrubbing that's such a problem. Taking out the soap and water is easy."

I liked that she'd found a balance that made her happy. She still got to feel ownership over the process, and not treat the big white box as a metaphorical blackbox of mystery technology...but she also didn't have to labor over a washtub for hours each week. The machine can wash, Ama can rinse and wring, and the sun can dry. That's the plan, anyway. :)

Then, of course, Ama had to feed me - she's much like my American mom in her Need To Feed - and before I left, she told me that I should bring over my own clothes to wash in her new machine. I grinned and thanked her. I'll take her up on the offer, but I'll wait until the water comes back on. That's the compromise that makes me happy. :)

1/27/09 Moroccan Film

Morocco's film industry is rapidly growing. It is based in Ouarzazate, a city near the Sahara, which means that it has access to enormous dunes, scrubby deserts, and tons of extras. It has become the shooting-location-of-choice for most desert films, including movies set in Iraq, Afghanistan, the Holy Land, Egypt, etc. I don't know all the films shot there, but a few that leap to mind are The Mummy and its sequels, Kingdom of Heaven, Charlie Wilson's War [a PCV friend of mine actually met the guy who served as Julia Roberts's bodyguard while she was there!], and Babel. Leo DiCaprio was rumored to be there earlier this year, but I don't know what he was filming.

Babel, the last film I named, is the only one of that list actually set in Morocco. In fact, it's set in Tazarine, a village near some PCV buddies.

I just watched Babel. I can't figure out if I want to recommend it or not.

The plot is wretchedly depressing. Bad things keep happening to good people, usually for no reason. There's gratuitous sex and nudity. It shows Moroccans doing things I've never seen, notably smoking dope and guarding sheep with a rifle. A rifle! The shepherds here use a shepherd's crook, like their fathers and forefathers for thousands of years. So there are lots of reasons not to like the movie.

But... It shows a real Moroccan village. It shows real Moroccans, doing things I've seen a thousand times but can't describe as well as a movie can show it, like eat out of a shared tagine, drive tomobils, sleep on handwoven rugs, follow sheep through rocky terrain, and give selflessly to foreigners (who they also like to watch, incessantly). Watching it, I kept wanting to shout out, "Oh, look, see there's--" something so deeply genuine and familiar. Come to think of it, it reminds me of when my family watched the one and only movie ever filmed in my sleepy town back home. We kept pointing out extras we recognized (especially Mom!), and the buildings and streets of our town.

It's the first movie that I can point to and say, If you watch this, you'll get to see what my life here is like.

But I don't want to validate all the painfully, unnecessarily wrong things the filmmakers felt the need to put in, for drama.

OK, here's my compromise position: rent it, watch it on mute (to avoid the suicidally depressing, albeit brilliantly intricate, plot), and fast-forward through all the scenes not in Morocco. (And if you're watching it with kids, cover their eyes while you fast-forward through the Japanese scenes.) Wait--watch the Mexican wedding. And take it off mute for that. Because that was one of the few joyous moments in the film.

I think that's the only way I can recommend the film in good conscience. Unless of course you want a dark and convoluted movie-watching experience, in which case, marhaba.

1/20/09 Inauguration Special Edition

The Country Director for Peace Corps/Morocco gave us all permission to travel to the nearest way-to-watch-the-inauguration (high speed internet, cable tv, etc), so a group of us planned to watch it together at the home of the only person in the region with a functioning satellite TV.

I got there in the early afternoon. The coverage had already started - it was around 9 or 10 in DC - but so far, it was just dignitaries filing in. I did get to see Michelle and Barack go into the White House for "coffee", and grinned to see that Michelle was carrying a hostess present. Now that's a classy lady.

About a dozen of us had gotten together for the big event. Some were outside, throwing around a football; some were in the kitchen, preparing pizza and cheeseburgers. (Presidential inaugurations require classic American food, naturally!) I floated around a bit, watching some coverage, hanging out... It was bitterly cold, so I didn't spend much time with the footballers, and eventually, around 4 - 11am in DC - I settled down in front of CNN. There were only two other people in there. Someone poked their head into the living room to ask why we were already watching, when nothing that important was happening yet.

I answered, "Because the surrounding ceremony is part of it. Think about the Oscars. When you watch the whole thing, you're excited and thrilled for the Best Picture winner. But when you just read the listings the next morning, it's pretty meaningless." I thought about something a friend had once said, about the need for ritual to emphasize sacredness. She was defending ornate church ceremonies, but made excellent points about the role of context. There's a reason it feels different to go to an opera or symphony, all dressed up in a gorgeous hall, than to listen to a recording of the same performance on your iPod.

And I wanted The Whole Experience, cheezy coverage and all.

Plus, it was fun to get to see all the ex-Presidents and ex-First Ladies. I'm pretty cut off from the news much of the time, so I didn't know that, for instance, Cheney is in a wheelchair and Bush (41) recently had back surgery. Learning those things made me feel...more connected, somehow.

Then, around 4:30 our time, Senator Feinstein kicked off the proceedings, and more and more people began drifting into the living room. There was commentary and side-conversation all around me, so I didn't catch every word, but that was OK; sharing the experience with my fellow Peace Corps Volunteers was worth more to me than hearing every syllable.

When Biden was sworn in, several people asked, "What happens if Bush (43) dies right now? Will Biden finish out his term?" Nobody knew, but the consensus answer was that since the rest of Bush's term was something under 20 minutes, it really didn't matter. :)

And then came Obama's swearing-in. We all smiled as little Sasha climbed up onto her platform. Someone - I'm not sure - said, "He's just so human!" When Chief Justice Roberts and President [no longer -Elect, as of noon, which had come and gone, I think during Rick Warren's address] Obama fumbled various words in the oath, the sentiment was echoed.

There was applause, cheering, and general celebration, which all quieted down when President Obama (President Obama!! President Obama!! We get to say President Obama now!!) began his inaugural address.

My friend's living room is pretty big, but we'd all crowded in to have room on the ponges and to have a good view of the TV, so I was pressed up close to the PCVs on either side of me. One, I'd hugged during the swearing in, and then just hung on to throughout the speech. I gripped the hand of the other, too. I needed the tangible reminders that This Is Real, not a dream or a wish or a hope, but Reality, unfolding before my eyes. Also, I was brimful with a thousand emotions - hope, relief, pride, joy, excitement, awe, humility, just to name a few - and wanted to share them with my beloved Peace Corps family. Plus, I've always been a hugger. :)

At the end of the address, there was more celebration. Many of us had tears in our eyes; some were openly weeping.

And then came the pizza and cheeseburgers, and there was great rejoicing.
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